While Alaska is a
solidly red state and one of the first in the
nation to pass a constitutional measure banning same-sex
marriage, being gay in Wasilla isn't quite what you
might think according to the natives.
The surprise
selection of Alaska Governor Sarah Palin for the Republican
ticket has generated intense interest in her majestic home
state and the previously little-known town of Wasilla.
The pick has left no shortage of questions, but in the
LGBT community, people might be wondering, what’s
it like to be gay there – to be out in the place
Palin calls home?
Like the vast
terrain of Alaska – which is both the largest U.S.
state by area and the least densely populated with
nearly 700,000 people total – the gay
experience in the Last Frontier is marked by contradictions
that can perplex the rest of the country, and even
Alaskans.
“Alaskans
live by a mindset of ‘live and let
live’,” says former Wasilla resident
Aaron Stielstra. Yet Alaskan residents were among the first
in the nation to approve a constitutional amendment
banning gay marriage back in 1998. “I would be
lying if I told you I could rationally explain
it,” Stielstra says of the disconnect, “I
don’t know how.”
Stielstra, 29,
was born in Anchorage and soon afterward his family moved
to Wasilla, about 40 miles north, where he lived until he
was 19. Despite the influential presence of
Evangelical Christian churches, and the absence of any
detectable gay community, he says he felt welcome when he
came out at 18.
The reaction he
received from his parents – who are solid Republicans
– lends some insight into what distinguishes
conservative Alaskans from their partisan counterparts
in the continental U.S.
One afternoon
during the ‘98 holiday season, Stielstra and his
mother were on their way to the mall in Anchorage when
he pulled their vehicle over and told her,
“There’s something I need to tell you.
I’m gay.”
He remembers
crying, enduring a long pause, and then his mother finally
asking, “Ok, are we still going
shopping?”
It took five
years before Stielstra summoned the courage to tell his
father, an avid hunter and frontiersman, whose opinion
worried him the most. But what Stielstra didn’t
know was that his father had been in therapy in the
interim, trying to work on ways to make his son feel
comfortable enough to come out to him.
Even now, when
Stielstra returns home from Chicago to visit family, he
says he doesn’t feel much of an anti-gay bias.
"I have never,
ever had a problem being openly gay in that town,” he
says of Wasilla. “I have brought two men up there to
meet the family in the past five years, and no one's
even batted an eye."
He contrasts this
with reactions he’s received in some of the
country’s most celebrated gayborhoods.
"I once had an
experience where I was walking down the street in Boys
Town [Chicago] holding the hand of my then-boyfriend, and we
were heckled by people passing by in a truck,”
he says. “Similar things have happened to me in
Los Angeles, and in Orange County. Nothing like that has
ever happened to me in Wasilla, and I have acted the
same way there."
“I think
Wasilla is a pretty good generalization for most of the
state,” he says about the conservative
Republican town of 7,000.
Fellow Alaska
native Ryan Quinn, 27, says the socially conservative
outlooks of state residents are characterized more by
unfamiliarity than actual anti-gay bias.
“It’s mostly lack of awareness, which could be
chalked up to not being exposed to gayness,”
says the Manhattan-based writer, who came out to
family and friends in Wasilla after his freshman year away
at college, and even brought a boyfriend to visit.
“The reaction was overwhelmingly positive from
the people I heard from, and certainly from the people who
know me on a personal basis,” he says.
“I’ve never encountered homophobia in
Alaska.”
For Quinn, Alaska
and Alaskan attitudes are defined by the geographical
isolation and separateness from the rest of the country.
“What
surprises me the most, now having lived outside
Alaska,” he says, “is there’s
just this huge divide in social world experience, and it
covers everything – from seeing homeless people on
the street, to crime, racial diversity and exposure to
gay people. There’s just none of that in
Alaska.”
Will Hanna, 30,
who moved to Alaska from what natives call “The Lower
48,” agrees.
“It kind
of feels like its own country sometimes,” he says,
referring to the strong culture of hunting and
individual rights that often finds expression in gun
ownership. “It wouldn’t be unusual to see
someone walking around Wasilla with a .45 strapped to
them.”
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Bolcer is a
freelance writer who is based in New York City.