Global Gayborhoods: Budapest

A leader in Central and Eastern Europeans' violently controversial charge for LGBT rights, Budapest's unique cosmopolitanism is none-the-less undergoing a lively revival.

By Nikko Lencek-Inagaki

Posted on Advocate.com September 26, 2008

Outside In

Despite being connected by nine bridges and -- since the late 19th century -- a single name, Buda and Pest are distinct and sprawling cities. The former's giant, gentle green hills, ensnared by concrete highways, hide challenging hikes, a picturesque medieval village around Várhegy Castle Hill, the best views of Pest's eclectic, spired skyline, and the priceless, eerie Szobor Park where statues of old Soviet and Communist leaders have been unceremoniously deposited (XXII Szabadkai út, Buda; 227-7446; 1500 Ft; 10 a.m.-dusk daily).

Across the Danube river, Pest bustles with the Hungarian State Opera, heartily spiced goulash stews, Europe's oldest metro, and beautifully faded Art Deco architecture. By night, this half pours itself outside -- weather permitting -- to drink local microbrews in the open-air beer gardens it claims to have invented. Together, Budapest is considered one of the continent's most beautiful cities and many will attest that it is currently undergoing a lively renaissance.

While constant controversy and violence have plagued Budapest Prides for the last few years, the city remains among the most liberal, safe places in Eastern and Central Europe -- matched by Ljubljana, Zagreb, and Prague. In an important step in 2008, police were praised for physically protecting marchers as protesters threw eggs, paint, cobblestones, and petrol bombs.

Resilience is key in Budapest, as much for capitol culture in general as for the queer scene. The city's unique cosmopolitanism has withstood Romans, Magyars, Mongols, Turks, Habsburgs, and Soviets and will withstand recent homophobia as well.

The city's LGBT bar and club scene, while small compared to Paris or London's, remains active, drawing queer folks from neighboring Central and Eastern European countries, and a form of civil unions has been legal since 1996. Effective in 2009, new legislation will guarantee these unions the same rights as married spouses except for joint adoption.

Tips: Hotels
Owned and operated by an openly gay Hungarian chef and former 5-star hotel executive, the Kapital Inn (1062 Budapest, 30 Aradi útca, Pest; 36-30-931-10-23; 79+ Euro) bed and breakfast is the top choice for LGBT accommodations in Budapest. The 19th-century building offers wireless Internet, a terrace, complimentary drinks and snacks whenever you feel peckish, fresh baked breakfasts, and priceless advice on current queer nightlife.

Perhaps the first -- it opened in 1896 -- word in Budapest luxury, the Corinthia Grand Hotel Royal (H-1073 Budapest, Erzsébet krt. 43-49, Pest; 36-1-479-40-00; 150+ EUR) consistently ranks among the top hotels in the world. Amenities include a hi-tech spa that pre-dates the hotel, two cocktail lounges, two restaurants, two streetside cafés, and regular wine-tastings.

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Reader Comments

These comments are reproduced as written by visitors to this Web site. They have not been edited for content, grammar, or spelling. The viewpoints appearing here are those of the writer, and do not necessarily reflect the opinion or views of advocate.com, The Advocate, or its affiliates.

Name: john in SF
Date posted: 2008-10-18 12:58 AM
Hometown: San Francisco

Comment:

I am in Budapest at this very moment. I come here for work pretty much every other month and I love it. Hungarians are passionate people and Hungarian men are masculine and sexy. I am out at work, but it isn't a big deal. WHen I first started coming here, I think there was a bit of a stir, but now, that has fallen by the wayside. Recently my partner was here with me and he loved it too. I wasn't here during the pride parade but was told that they arrested some nut who had a cache of grenades. Being from San Francisco, it is somethimes hard to judge a city as gay friendly, even Amsterdam, but to me, it just seems like no big deal here in general. Actually, the only nasty glances I have received here at work have been from this total jerk Italian, but he is not that popular in general. I would say to come here without any worry. The city is beautiful, the men are sexy, and there are lots of Turkish baths, what more could you ask for?

Name: john in SF
Date posted: 2008-10-18 12:58 AM
Hometown: San Francisco

Comment:

Name: john in SF
Date posted: 2008-10-18 12:57 AM
Hometown: San Francisco

Comment:

Name: Hugh Nini
Date posted: 2008-10-03 1:44 AM
Hometown: Dallas

Comment:

My partner and I have vacationed in Budapest every summer for the past 6 years and it is a lovely place. Our friends there are all straight so we haven't seen much of the gay night life but what we have experienced has been great. Our straight friends took us to a drag show and the performers were every bit on par with any drag show we've ever been to here in the states. Mostly what stands out for us is the very gentle and generous nature of the Hungarian people as a whole. They are some of the kindest and easy to be with people we have ever known. And one of the married couples we call our closest friends have honored us by asking that we be godparents to their first child. We highly reccommend this beautiful city and it's beautiful people.

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