Virginia’s capital city takes the spotlight as a surprisingly diverse Southern LGBTQ+ travel haven

It was the end of May, with WorldPride reaching its peak in Washington, D.C., the following weekend. But about two and a half hours south, Richmond was already showcasing its LGBTQ+ community in unforgettable style. Over five whirlwind days, Virginia’s capital proved why it’s increasingly hailed as one of America’s most queer-friendly destinations—a city where Pride is both a celebration and a living civic commitment.

My journey began on Wednesday under a torrential rain, shielded by a driver determined to keep me dry under a broad black umbrella. Initially, I was bound for The Quirk Hotel, but a boil water advisory impacting parts of Richmond forced a last-minute switch to the Delta Hotel, a sleek Marriott property downtown that fortunately remained unaffected by the water crisis.

Stepping out of the black SUV, I was greeted by a friendly receptionist. With my room not yet ready, I settled into the bar on the second floor, ordered a glass of prosecco, and caught up on work emails. Within the hour, the front desk called, and I was finally able to freshen up and change.

By the time I made my way back to the lobby—pathologically early, as usual—I’d already found my first new friend: Julia Randall, a lesbian travel content creator behind the handle staysandgetaways. We were soon joined by Alysse Dalessandro, another prominent travel influencer whose brand, readytostare, champions queer-affirming and plus-size-accommodating travel. The three of us quickly became thick as thieves, armed with water bottles, cameras, and a shared sense of adventure.

We were also joined by another content creator traveling with someone who appeared to be his boyfriend, judging by the level of PDA the couple shared. As it turned out, the two had never actually met in person until this trip. One hailed from North Carolina, the other from Chicago. They were sweetly affectionate, leaning into each other and photos, but after just one full day of programming, they quietly parted ways with the group and left Richmond altogether. We still don’t know exactly what went on there, but it provided us with an element of gay drama that an LGBTQ+ trip would not be complete without.

A Taste of Richmond

Our first official gathering was a happy hour at Linden Row Inn, a historic property that radiates old-world charm. Despite the partial water crisis, spirits were high. Introductions flew around a charming courtyard, accompanied by cocktail glasses and light bites.

Dinner followed at Henley on Grace, a Cal/Asian restaurant glowing with warmth and LGBTQ+ inclusivity. Staff explained how they were operating safely amid the water advisory, including the use of high-heat and chemical sanitizing dishwashers, as well as the provision of bottled water for everything, including ice. The steak was tender, the desserts downright decadent, and the lively conversation turned the evening into a gathering reminiscent of chosen family.

Queer policy in place

After dinner, some ventured out into Richmond nightlife. Options like Babe’s, Barcode, and Godfrey’s beckoned. Babe’s, founded in 1979, is one of the few remaining lesbian bars in the U.S. Godfrey’s features drag shows.

While Richmond boasts historic charm, the city’s LGBTQ+ appeal extends beyond bars and events. Richmond has earned a perfect 100 score on the Human Rights Campaign’s Municipal Equality Index, reflecting one of the most comprehensive sets of local protections in the South.

Under city law, discrimination based on sexual orientation and gender identity is prohibited in employment, housing, and public accommodations. The city offers transgender-inclusive health care benefits for municipal employees, contracts only with fair-minded businesses, and provides services for LGBTQ+ youth, older adults, people living with HIV, and the transgender community.

The city even maintains a dedicated LGBTQ+ liaison in the Mayor’s officewhere, which local leadership views as a sign that queer residents are not an afterthought, but an integral part of civic life.

Danny Avula, the city’s new mayor, told The Advocate that he’s proud to showcase all of the diversity Richmond has to offer. “We love our LGBTQ+ friends and neighbors here,” he said. “It’s a joy to showcase all we have to offer.”

Richmond’s police force has an LGBTQ+ liaison and reports hate crime data to the Federal Bureau of Investigation.

Yet Richmond’s progress stands out all the more sharply against Virginia’s complex political backdrop. While the U.S. Supreme Court’s 2020 Bostock v. Clayton County ruling prohibits employment discrimination nationwide, federal law still leaves gaps in protections for public accommodations and services. That’s why local ordinances, like Richmond’s, remain essential.

Thursday: Queer history and botanical blooms

Thursday began at SB’s Lakeside Love Shack, a retro diner named for the B-52s hit song. Over playful brunch dishes and strong coffee, the group laughed about travel mishaps and bonded over shared queer experiences.

Then we moved on to Carytown, Richmond’s “mile of style,” where history and contemporary queer culture overlap on nearly every block. What began as a buffalo trail connecting Virginia’s Eastern Shore to Kentucky is now a vibrant stretch of vintage shops, rainbow flags, and deep LGBTQ+ significance. Our guide, Tre, from The Valentine Museum walked us through decades of local queer history, detailing how the area became a hub of community resilience and activism.

Carytown has seen everything from Pride marches to political protests, she explained. Richmond’s first Pride in 1979 took place in Byrd Park, but drew inspiration—and many of its organizers—from the businesses and activists based along Cary Street. “Babe’s has been here since 1979,” our blue-haired history teacher noted, emphasizing that the city’s LGBTQ+ history is alive in these streets.

After soaking up stories from the past, we continued to Liberty Public House for lunch, a queer-owned, woman-owned restaurant known as Church Hill’s “Queer Cheers.” It lived up to its name with welcoming vibes and hearty fare.

The garden and the Ginter legacy

Next, we visited Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden. There, staff previewed for us Trans Jam, an upcoming Pride event featuring 20 artisan vendors, drag performances, and DJs in a colorful celebration of queer community blooming in the very soil of Richmond.

Beyond the beauty of its flowers and pathways, the garden carries significant queer history. Lewis Ginter, a 19th-century tobacco magnate who built the five-star Jefferson Hotel and developed Richmond’s Ginter Park neighborhood, lived for many years with his business partner and close companion, John Pope. While discreet about their personal lives, as was necessary in their time, historians acknowledge the depth of their bond. Ginter and Pope lie side by side at Hollywood Cemetery.

Ginter’s niece, Grace Arents, became one of Richmond’s great philanthropists and lived openly with her partner, Mary Garland Smith. Arents ultimately donated significant property that would become today’s Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden. Her generosity, and quiet defiance of social norms, remains woven into the garden’s DNA, a reminder that queer stories often bloom quietly in places where you least expect them.

As Julia, Alysse, and I explored the grounds, we noted that while the guides shared details about Ginter’s and Arents’ lives with us, these details weren’t overtly publicized in the garden’s signage or broader visitor materials.

A Quirk-y night

Back downtown, we previewed The Quirk Hotel’s “Gayest Room Ever.” Bursting with rainbow décor and featuring a donation to Virginia Pride for every booking, it was a perfect example of how modern hospitality can double as LGBTQ+ advocacy.

Before dinner, at a lively happy hour reception at Quirk, Katherine O’Donnell, president of Richmond Region Tourism, spoke with The Advocate about the city’s evolution. “Years ago, it would’ve been unimaginable for Richmond to be on the radar as a queer travel destination,” she said. “Now we’re proud to be loud—and we’re seeing visitors come here because they know they’ll be welcomed exactly as they are.”

Dinner followed in Quirk’s private dining room, where a contra bass player and band filled the space with music as we shared family-style plates and stories. It felt like an intimate celebration of queer community, echoing the creativity and warmth that Richmond has poured into its LGBTQ+ scene.

After dinner, we headed upstairs to Quirk’s rooftop bar, where cocktails flowed as we took in Richmond’s skyline glowing against the night sky.

Friday: Radical hospitality and artistic icons

Friday morning brought us to Gold Lion Community Café, a space that feels less like a restaurant and more like a community lifeline. Co-owner Matthew Narsinghani shared his journey from working in corporate DEI roles to opening the café alongside his husband. “Virginia’s not purple—it’s blue,” Matthew declared. “We felt we could be part of the change.”

At Gold Lion, radical hospitality reigns. Matthew explained how they quietly provide meals to those in need via “Duke’s tab,” allowing patrons to dine with dignity. “I don’t believe in ‘pay what you can.’ That’s still a transaction. This is about dignity,” he said. As we spoke, a man who was obviously down on his luck approached our table, and Matthew directed him to the cashier. “Get yourself some food,” he said. By the time he was done, the man had something to eat and drink, as well as new clothes from a community closet at the entrance.

Their all-vegetarian menu reads like a love letter, blending Matthew’s Japanese heritage and his husband’s Indian roots. “Everybody gets a little bit of input,” he grinned. “We’re small, but we’re rocking it out.”

Later that day, the group headed to the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts, one of the country’s largest art museums, to explore Frida: Beyond the Myth. Frida Kahlo has become a towering queer icon, known for her vivid self-portraits and fearless exploration of identity, sexuality, and pain.

The exhibit featured striking works, such as The Two Fridas, alongside personal photographs and letters, offering a glimpse into her passionate and tumultuous life. Yet notably, the museum’s exhibit materials didn’t explicitly emphasize her queer identity—something Alysse pointed out as we met up with Richmond Region Tourism public relations manager Sarah Beth Couvillion, who drove us around during the day for shenanigans despite being about six months pregnant.

A learning lunch at Diversity Richmond

After our art-filled morning, we arrived at Diversity Richmond for a learning lunch. Rev. Dr. Lacette Cross welcomed us with warmth and humor, laying out the organization’s mission. “We exist because we know that diversity—period—is essential,” she told us.

Cross shared a particularly moving insight: “People think Pride is only about parties. But we’re here for the people who can’t always celebrate. We’re here for those in crisis, for queer youth who have nowhere to go, for trans folks who need a place that says, ‘We see you.’”

Diversity Richmond lives out that vision. As the hub for Greater Richmond’s LGBTQ+ community, the nonprofit offers a range of robust programming year-round, including cultural events, peer support groups, emergency assistance, and health resources.

Following the talk, our group rolled up our sleeves for volunteer work at Diversity Thrift, the sprawling thrift store funding the organization’s programs. During our volunteer shift, we sorted clothing, housewares, and tagged items at the expansive warehouse. Periodically, staff shared how proceeds fund life-skills workshops, wellness support, youth programming, and Virginia Pride events.

Friday night: Songs and Shakira news

Friday evening brought us to Richmond Triangle Players, the South’s longest-running LGBTQ+ theatre company. There were no elaborate costumes or sets—just local performers delivering stunning vocal performances. Often the purest queer artistry comes from simply sharing one’s voice.

But mid-way through the performance, The Advocate learned that Shakira had canceled her highly anticipated WorldPride opening concert in D.C. the next day. We had plans to attend the high-energy event in a private suite at Nationals Park on Saturday evening. As word spread, staff from Richmond Tourism started working their contacts.

Despite the abrupt news, the night carried on. At The Workshop, an event space that caters to diverse groups, DJs, drag queens, and swirling lights kept our spirits high. The event stretched four hours (which some joked could have been two) but it was undeniably fun. There was an open bar, platters of finger food, face painting, and after a brief downpour, a brilliant rainbow arching across the Richmond sky. Under that rainbow, we danced, laughed, and soaked up the final hours of our time in RVA—a perfect, serendipitous send-off.

Saturday: The Pride Ride north

Saturday dawned bright and early for the Pride Ride Send-Off. At Main Street Station, we fueled up on breakfast before boarding a private Amtrak car adorned with rainbow-themed decorations. A drag performer serenaded us as Virginia’s countryside rolled past, transforming the journey into a moving Pride parade.

Upon arrival in Alexandria, rainbow-wrapped public buses greeted us to take us to our lodging. Our home base for the night, Hotel Heron, offered boutique charm and coastal elegance.

After dropping our bags, we gathered at Morrison House for a lunch reception with local LGBTQ+ leaders.

There, I spoke with Jordan Costen-Sumpter, founder of Safe Space NOVA, a nonprofit serving LGBTQ+ youth ages 14 to 18. “After moving from D.C. to Northern Virginia, which is supposed to be the bluest part of the state, I wanted to volunteer and mentor LGBTQ+ youth,” he said. “But there was no organization doing that. So I did the most overambitious thing I could think of: I founded one myself.”

Since launching in 2016, Safe Space NOVA has run monthly social hangouts—everything from bowling nights to inclusive proms—as well as comprehensive, affirming sex education workshops that cover topics like contraception for all bodies, consent, and building healthy relationships.

“We hear the same thing over and over from kids,” Costen-Sumpter said. “They feel like they don’t have a place, that they’re abnormal or alone. We want to be that place where they’re seen and celebrated.”

An afternoon walking tour of Old Town Alexandria revealed the city’s rich architecture and vibrant public art, including the bold Progress Pride crosswalks in Market Square. At Salon deZEN, some indulged in mini beauty services—a perfect, self-affirming way to close out our Pride journey.

Though Nationals Park remained dark, our hosts salvaged the finale with dinner at Hank’s Oyster Bar, a beloved D.C.-area spot renowned for its fresh seafood and casual, inclusive atmosphere. Over oysters and cocktails, we toasted to new friendships, unexpected detours, and the fierce joy that defines queer travel.

Check out more of our Richmond photos below!