Marc Jacobs is
considered the bellwether designer of American fashion. So
what's the outlook for next spring? Um, a lot of lingerie?
his spring collection late Monday night to a packed
crowd that had been waiting in the Lexington Avenue Armory
for two hours. (Celebrities such as Victoria Beckham
and Sheryl Crow didn't wait quite as long-- they
seemed to know to show up ''fashionably late.'')
But it looked
like he could have used a little more time. Models were
wearing what Jacobs called ''scrap tops'' and ''one-half
gowns''-- clothes that one presumes were left
unfinished to make an ironic statement--thus,
giving the audience plenty of glimpses of their silk, satin,
and crepe bras, slips, and tap pants.
elements of the outfits, such as a black lace cape or a
moire sleeveless trench coat, were very attractive,
but wearable clothes weren't essential here.
Surely some of the stylists, retailers, editors, and
fashion fans went home shaking their heads. Jacobs, however,
definitely had a plan.
The entire show
was staged backward, beginning with his bow, then the
finale and then running through the looks, starting with
number 56 and ending with number 1, a denim cape and
sequined gown. Some of the shoes had heels built
sideways into the uppers, while others skimmed so low on
the heel they looked too small for the models even though
they actually fit just fine.
It was almost
surprising that Jacobs did indeed turn out clothes
appropriate for warmer weather instead of parkas and cozy
Even with all
this ''message,'' the collection fit into some of the more
important trends emerging from New York Fashion Week:
color-blocking, sheer overlays, sequins, and nude and
natural colors with bright pops from purple, pink, and
safe to say, though, that the only place dresses decorated
with Silly String would be on the runway was this show. (AP)